The Spring-Summer 2020 edition focused on the dialogue between nature and technology, from concepts to applications
From 12 to 14 February 2019 our team attended one of the largest textile design events in the fashion world: the Première Vision Paris Spring-Summer 2020. The trade show brought together over 1,700 exhibitors from 50 different countries: a must-go for every fashion designer on a fabric sourcing mission.
This edition confirmed a subject present at the major textile trade shows and trends bureaux worldwide: Nature vs Technology. Both a creative direction and a consumer behaviour trend, this dialogue aligns the sustainability concern with technological improvements in the textile industry.
Keywords at Perspectives Trends Forum
Perspectives Trends Forum points out that this is a season of reoccurring dialogues of nature and technology: how they intersect and react to each other.
The overall feeling is of playfulness and weightless fantasy despite the somewhat disturbing possibilities of the future, with provocative identities that come to disrupt and challenge the status quo, presenting new paradigms. Co-responsibility is mandatory: taking action on our effects on nature and developing new technologies to increase sustainability too.
Première Vision also brings a concept of revealing layers, for us not only a textile inspiration but a metaphor for the digital and technological layers in our lives as well. Consumers and brands are increasingly more engaged with those layers, and agility is crucial to thriving in this fast-paced environment.
The fashion industry is committed: to sustainable practices that will ensure its longevity, to relationships with consumers and suppliers, to a creative practice that brings innovation, disruption, and -- why not? -- happiness too.
Fabric Ideas For Spring-Summer 2020
The light joy of spring and summer breeze inspire a wide range of floaty fabrics and layered transparencies, "club or deckchair inspired": silks, organzas, mousseline and voile with iridescent reflections, cellophane transparencies. Lace (Chantilly or Guipure) is complex and heavily adorned with embroidery, sequins, beads, and the opalescent reflection of mother-of-pearl. This world is ruled by paleness, with rainbows and insect-like metallics.
There is a contrast between raw materials and preciosity. Denim comes with soft and regular washing-outs, in light weights and more fluid thanks to Lyocell and Cupro. Linen appears treated for the city, in fluid blend options, highly coloured and/or with speckles and sparkles. The same treatment of roughness is applied to leather: dehydrated, crazy, scary, and irregular; creating new textures, in opposition to renewed lustrous and matt-shiny surfaces.
Exquisite florals and a diversity of animals were seen in interesting interpretations throughout Designs area at Première Vision, February 2019. Credits: Eleonora Clerici Textile Design [left], Zisser Textile Design [right].
Prints & Patterns
Nature reigns supreme at Première Vision's trends for Spring-Summer 2020. Florals are stylised in artistic ways, with Cubist or Abstract references, strokes of brushes, and highly colourful: the intensity and joy of summer are visually translated and played with across the range of fabrics.
The wildlife is also welcome with animal illustrations from the jungle, forests or the savanna. New geometrics, including ethnic references, graphics lines, and stripes, are combined with an array of other motifs to complete the season´s offer. Digital effects and original forms of layering ideas update any motif, and the result looks very fresh in new colour combinations.
Sport & Tech
We have seen how the Sportswear market pushes forward fabric innovations and experimentation throughout history. At the Sport & Tech trends forum at Première Vision, we had the chance to check the latest developments and applications for the industry, its highlights being a modern take in pieces constructed with wrinkled materials, paper-touch or memory fabrics, both matt and lustrous for Athleisure. Water-repellent and lightweight fabrics are very interesting for Running & Biking, with coating finishes or plastic looks, and camouflage prints are updated with reflective finishes -- functional and contemporary at the same time.
Other features and finishings for fabrics, such as easy care, windproof, and waterproof, turn these materials perfect for everyday life. Pearly filigree brings an exclusive look to some pieces, and smarter options for Urban Outdoors and city wear offer this new consumer a balance between fresh looks, performance, and an ability to adapt to all the new ways of getting around. Wet gleam effects, metallic windproofs, nautical rubbers, dry synthetics, and silky glazings, including materials with cottony lightness and Sportswear fabrics that use techniques for practical and elegant tailoring, are also part of this trend.
We also love the combination of durability, elasticity, and mobility that zero-gram and stretching under-layers materials bring to Fitness, Wellness and Yoga.
Peclers Trends Highlights
Maï Nguyen, Fashion Director at Peclers Paris presented the “SS20 Women´s Fashion” during Première Vision, February 2019. The "Inspiring Stories for Fall-Winter 20/21" anticipates pragmatic solutions for the market.
Amongst the conferences at Première Vision, we had the pleasure to attend 2 trends presentations from Peclers Paris. Maï Nguyen, Fashion Director, presented "Spring-Summer 2020 Women's Fashion", highlighting “a desire to let go and give in to softness and sensuality”. The season comes with 4 creative directions: "Fulfilment", "Human Fiction", "Impulses" and "Zero Complex".
For the other conference, she was joined by Ashley Adé, Research & Future Insights Consultant at Peclers, and they presented "Inspiring Stories for Fall-Winter 20/21", taking us on a journey of fictional worlds and pragmatic solutions, divided into 4 concepts: "Creative Catharsis", "Mindful Spirituality", "Inclusivity All Around" and "Post Waste Society". We were delighted with Nguyen inspiring cases and examples, telling us to “unlearn what you know”, and reinforcing that “it's time for a decision! Act!”, as well leaving us with an important message that we completely agree with: “co-design is no longer an option! It's required from brands, industrials and artisans.”
Technology and Sustainability in Digital Printing
We met Dalton Cheng, from Intech Digital Technology, a company that brings the best scenario for digital printing to the market. Designers and brands worldwide can now print whatever they want in the most sustainable way with Intech, which is a ZERO-DⓇ roll-to-roll digital printing solution with Reactive PigmentⓇ. That means it's zero waste and there is zero pollution as there is no need to use water, solvents, heavy metals or mordents. Beyond sustainability: we are very impressed not only by the quality of Intech's digital printing - high definition for textures, colours, and details - but also by the softness of the printed fabrics (no cracking or rough feel at all, a common end product of digital printing).
The creative possibilities are limitless, as designers can print literally everything, from popular patterns to fabric textures - including an already washed denim look (saving even more resources in this specific case). They can print on an array of materials: cotton, viscose, modal, silk and acetate fabrics, woven and knit, crepe de chine, satin, georgette... On top of that, they also work with minimum quantity orders and have a transparent, flexible, and fast process of sampling and production.
Craftsmanship for Millenials
Première Vision also presented the Maison d'Exceptions: a selection of 30 ateliers with exclusive know-how when it comes to artisanal craftsmanship -- a growing topic of interest between millennials. Carmen Bramly, a prodigious novelist and journalist for the Twenty Magazine writes that "Artisanship is highly valued by young people because it touches on all the values they care about" -- those values being a responsibility in terms of consumption and living, the creative and manual processes that are put into this type of work, and seeking knowledge through experience and experiments.
This area of the tradeshow was divided into ancestral techniques (such as hand weaving and hand dyeing), contemporary techniques (from recomposed raw materials to feather work and mechanical braiding), and vernacular techniques (hand embroidery and needlework); and brought together artisans from Japan, France, Italy, the Netherlands, and Canada.
Fashion Tech at Première Vision
For the third time, the annual Wearable Lab, a platform dedicated to the intersection between fashion and technology was hosted by Première Vision in partnership with the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. It counted with 17 exhibitors, divided into 3 areas: smart materials, innovative technologies, and prototypes & labs. "The Augmented Man" was the overall theme, with virtual reality guiding the innovative materials and proposed aesthetics, exploring "how clothing could allow us to surpass our own abilities, our own human condition".
The Wearable Lab III hosted an exhibition called Skills2, an invitation to explore new interconnections between body, performance and society. 4 outfits made by fashion tech designers (Maartje Dijkstra, Anrealage, and Ying Gao) discussed the "possibilities of 'augmented' beings". The experience was completed with a virtual reality installation created by BeAnotherLab, and by MateriÒ sharpening our curiosity with a curated selection of interesting materials.
Wearable Lab was also the stage for the launch of the book ".FUTUR", a physical extension of the website Futur404, co-founded by fashion disrupter Noémie Balmat. Under the tagline "not found_yet", the website intends "to explore tomorrow's fashion, together, through this new media platform", and her book invites people to discuss the countless correlations between fashion and tech.
Noémie is not only avid support of fashion technology but also questions the outcomes and consequences of that progress. A must-read critical thinker, she poses poignant questions such as "How do we recycle connected clothing?", anticipating issues in the industry.
As expected, the book ".FUTUR" goes beyond paper and interacts with an app, adding a technological layer of augmented reality to the reading experience. In her talk during the launch, Noémie mentioned the need for working together with "creative technology": "a broadly interdisciplinary and transdisciplinary field that combines computing, design, art and, most importantly, the humanities (...) like social sciences". Another example of how engagement and digital layers are leading the industry and consumer behaviour.
MateriÒ: a digital library of materials, and its selection of 10 versatile and flexible samples, not textiles in the classical sense, at Première Vision February 2019. On the right MuSkin, a mushroom leather made from a giant South American fungus, very soft and flexible, close to suede texture.
This section, also present in the WearableLab area, focuses on MateriÒ: a digital library of materials that became available in physical format at Première Vision. Atypical and innovative, ten materials were selected to be seen live by the visitors of the trade show. Not originally conceived in the fashion industry, these materials were reimagined for the catwalk by brands like Louis Vuitton and Maison Martin Margiela.
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