Spring-Summer 2020 trends and highlights from the trade show
During the 11-14 of February, our team was present at Texworld Paris Spring-Summer 2020 in Paris, France. The four days at the fair focused heavily on sustainability — a subject that can no longer be ignored, both for the industry and the planet’s health. Texworld Paris does that in almost a poetic way, questioning the ways humanity has altered the environment they find themselves in, and presenting an optimistic, insightful perspective that builds on humans' turbulent past. The textile trade show has brought us incredible inspiration from meeting suppliers, discovering trends, and listening to interesting talks and conferences. Don’t worry if you couldn’t make it — the highlights of the Texworld Paris Spring-Summer 2020 are:
Texworld Paris Spring-Summer 20 Trends Forum. Image courtesy of Texworld Paris.
Spring-Summer 2020 Trends
The textile fair named 8 macro trends for the Spring-Summer 2020 season: “Microcosm”, “Tumult”, “Sphere”, “Membrane”, “Waves”, “Connections”, “Path”, and “Human”. The “Connections” trend is the one that resonated the most to us at Digifair365, as it talks about linking past and future together, looking for opportunities where people might find obstacles. This trend is about bringing people and ideas together to build a path to the future that, together, we are all heading towards.
Fabric Stories in 4 Progressive Themes
"We must finally assume our mistakes to fix them. We will have to start off with what exists", write Louis Gérin and Gregory Lamaud, both Texworld Art Directors, in the textile fair's trends book for the Spring-Summer 2020. Again, sustainability is the starting point: from the worst human leftovers -- "These modern fossils. These eternal plastics." -- should our new world be rebuilt, a positive and optimistic approach that defies the often grim perspective on the future. "Because it is in the necessity that we succeed in becoming better than ourselves. A little more than human."
Spring-Summer 20 Trends Forums at Texworld Paris, February 2019. Image courtesy of Texworld Paris.
For the fabrics, the 4 themes as creative directions are:
Precursory Remnant: This trend aims to readdress and redefine the idea of beauty, once we will focus on our waste to start weaving the future. It's an era of builders, of recycled concepts.
Materials: smooth fabrics with petrified or fossilised textures, rustic and natural fabrics combined with metallic yarns or sequins. Soft handles of woven or knit velvet, and velour textures in patterns or 3D constructions. Golden oil look seen in foil and coating finishes, or by metallic yarns and shiny satins. Other surfaces effects such as oxidised, granular, sanded and clayed complete the atmosphere.
Reincarnated Relic: the builders from the previous theme give way to alchemists, who are all about experimentation, upcycling, and the mixing of elements.
Materials: colourful and sparkling woven and knits; solid fabrics, yarn-dyed or metallic yarns. Other types of shine are also included here, like metallic foil and coating finishes, sequins, glittering looks, and plastic surfaces. Youthful but sophisticated, as there are many ideas combined, revealing contents assembled in an almost distorted, artificial way. Striped and checked fabrics are commercial options for this theme.
Flickering Oasis: after the alchemy is done, this peaceful world gives space to beauty and calmness. The utopia inhabited by thinkers and artists where nothing is complicated; there is beauty in the raw and in the ruins of transformation.
Materials: silver shine referring to light refraction appear on materials that feel like membranes. Iridescent shine in elaborated and twisted constructions; and an infinite symmetry for textures, patterns, and jacquards that contrast with a natural and organic look, seen in linen and cotton fabrics or nature-inspired prints.
Passionate Gateway: A time for dreamers, for something completely new. This trend talks about freedom: mad, imaginative, and incredibly original, always pushing the limits a bit further.
Materials: rich constructions and very creative, elaborated fabrics in playful colourways. Textures, prints, and patterns are also combined with perforated, brushed, fluffy, and embroidered finishes. A game of opposites: mate and shine, simple and complex, natural to synthetic.
ELITE at Texworld Paris
ELITE sector, Texworld Paris, February 2019
We were delighted to check the ELITE sector of the fair, available for the third year in a row. It consists of a specific selection of 24 suppliers (from 7 different countries) by Texworld Paris that show incredible adaptability in design, technique, logistics, marketing etc. An excellent opportunity to exchange ideas and ask for the assistance of experienced professionals to improve a collection.
Yaser & Mayasa Co. fabrics at Texworld Paris, February 2019.
Amongst the suppliers that we talked with is Hussain Al Beer and Yasser Al Beer, from Yaser & Mayasa Co., Dubai (United Arab Emirates). This company produces a diversity of fabrics with artisanal looks and, sometimes, finishes: embroidery over elaborated fabrics; appliques of trims, delicate fabrics, and laser-cut materials; ombre effects, plissé fabrics and much more. All of their production is available in low minimum quantity as well, and they are also able to customise and develop fabric with designers.
We met Tommaso Rulli, from MTI USA Inc. - a company focused on presenting production partners that specialised in sustainable and traceable raw materials and garment manufacturing all over the world - who just weeks ago was at the 8th Future Fabrics Expo. He was telling us about Profits Fund Global Holding Limited (PFGHL), which has factories in China and Hong Kong, and is fully committed to delivering large-scale production whilst ensuring good conditions for workers, a better outcome for the planet, and, of course, high-quality fabrics. Tommaso also delighted us with PFGHL's plans for sustainable production of silk in Sichuan, China, which has huge American clients such as Everlane, has over 10 environmental credentials and is in the process of gaining 6 more, which will be fully unveiled soon.
Profits Funds Global Holding Limited (PFGHL) has factories in China and Hong Kong, being fully committed to the environment with high-quality fabrics like sustainable silk.
Mozartex is another disrupter in the industry, working with Lenzing Group since the launch of TENCEL™, and always ensuring a low impact on the environment. Not only they produce an eco-friendly, sustainable fabric, but also use ecological dyeing processes that save 50% more water and energy.
Zero Waste Fashion Designers
Sustainability now: Zero Waste Fashion Designers at Texworld Paris, February 2019. Image courtesy of Texworld Paris.
A collective of 10 Zero Waste Fashion Designers presented their creations and innovative design techniques during Texworld Paris Spring-Summer 2020, organised by Mylène L'Orguilloux, from Milan AV-JC. The disruptive brands selected were Zil Vostalova (Czech Republic), Emroce (Italy), Marie Labarelle (France), Ewst Fashionlab (Vietnam), Sophie Lou (Netherlands), Zerobarracento (Italy), Hodei (France), Nastasia Nash (Spain) and Sarah Hayes & Aspar Karahyuseinov (Sweden).
Conferences & Talks
Louis Gérin brought us a lot of inspiration presenting “Source Spring-Summer 2020” at Texworld Paris. Image courtesy of Texworld Paris.
With an extended schedule of conferences & talks, Texworld Paris brought together key industry speakers from all over the globe, including Mrs Leila Rodrigues Gomes (from Pantone) and Louis Gérin & Grégory Lamaud (from 2G2L Fashion Design & Consulting). We found the discussion “Which fibres and channels should be chosen for a fashion that can be recycled?” with Gunjan Sharma (Reliance Industries), Paul Boyer (Lin Et Chanvre Bio), and Mickael Lemaire (UTT Yarns), moderate by Gilles Muller (Re-Active) one of the most interesting ones, with the statement that consumers are reverting the process of the supply chain, the production of eco-friendly yarns that are traceable, and how reflecting upon the end of the recycling process is paramount.
We love the idea that soon people will be able to wear products grown close and local to us, and we are keen on observing how the change of the fashion paradigm is affecting the industry at different points of its chain. More news and detailed insight from the fashion industry and textile world are coming. Meanwhile, get connected to new suppliers every day.